Upper Filbert Steps, between Telegraph Hill Blvd and Montgomery Streets
(Continuing the story about Gabriel’s visit to Telegraph Hill) At the top of these steps, Gabriel stopped and looked across the bay at the sunset reflecting off the windows of the buildings in the East Bay. He then looked at Treasure Island and recalled how the island was a source of wonder for his friend Wayne because a World’s Fair had once been held on the island. (The Night Listener)
In the “Tales of the City” miniseries, Mona (Chloe Webb) and Mouse (Marcus D’Amico) are filmed descending this section of the Filbert Steps. Mona blindsides Mouse with the news that she’s moving out of the apartment on Barbary Lane. After a brief flare of emotions, Mouse changes the subject and informs Mona that his parents are coming to town. In the book, Tales of the City, Mona and Mouse are walking along the quay at Marina Green when Mona drops this bomb on Mouse.
During your walk down the Filbert Steps, you may encounter a flock of green parrots – feral descendants of birds that escaped years ago. The original flock lived in the trees around Telegraph Hill; however, as the flock grew over the years, it began to divide. Now flocks of the parrots can be found in other parts of the city.
In Tales of the City, the flock flew past the Day’s apartment (the Malloch Apartments below in this tour) toward the eucalyptus trees around Julian Castle (at the north end of
Montgomery Street). DeDe compared the parrots to Beauchamp: they were beautiful and arrogant. Beauchamp, on the other hand, wasn’t a fan of the birds: “I hatethose fucking parrots.” (More Tales of the City/28 Barbary Lane, page 277)
Several years later, in Babycakes, as Mary Ann and Simon descended the Filbert Steps (not this section of the steps, but rather the section below Montgomery Street) their conversation was interrupted by the screeching of the parrots.
To learn more about these fascinating birds, visit Mark Bittner’s website. Mark was once a caretaker of a house here on Telegraph Hill. Over time, he developed a relationship with the birds that eventually led to a writing of a book, The Wild Parrots of Telegraph Hill: A Love Story...with Wings, which was followed by a movie of the same name. Here is a short video about the parrots filmed by Mark Bittner. (I can’t find the source for this video; please share it with me if you know it.)
Tours of the Tales